What Does Christmas Taste Like in Panama?
Three cooks prepare to taste their favorite seasonal dishes, relive fond memories, and share a meal with their families.
December is synonymous with gatherings, parties, get-togethers, and celebrations. It’s a time for loved ones to come together, hug, and treat each other, but the festivities aren’t complete without roast pork, tamales, and rum punch to toast with. Rice with pigeon peas, turkey, and potato salad are also essential. The table is dressed in its finest when Christmas arrives. I spoke with three chefs about their favorite dishes and the memories they cherish most during this time of year: Domingo de Obaldía, owner of the traditional Panamanian restaurant El Trapiche; Elena Hernández, private chef and founder of Panamá Gastronómica; and Francisco Castro, chef of the Panamanian restaurant Mercaito. Three champions of local culinary culture, with extensive experience in the industry.
Elena Hernández:
What I love to make most is tamales de olla; I make them with corn masa and traditional sofrito; I add pork ribs that I cook for several hours until they’re tender. Every year I incorporate something different to improve my recipe. And what I love to eat most is pernil (roast pork leg), because it reminds me of my dad. He always pinched it when it came out of the oven, like the good Cuban he was. Now my brothers make it; we always do it Cuban-style with sour orange, plenty of garlic, oregano, and salt. We marinate it for two or three days, sometimes we smoke it. What I love most about Christmas is the food, without a doubt.
Francisco Castro:
My favorite dish of the season is tamales, for two reasons: first, they’re delicious and a part of our traditional cuisine. I remember making them with my grandmother and aunts. Now that they’re gone, my family and I get together to make them. That’s the second reason: I love planning the gathering and coming together to cook, tell stories, eat, and toast. When we’re finished, we share the tamales. We do the same with the rum punch; we all get together to make it, and then everyone takes their bottle home. That’s what brings us together most during the holidays: cooking.
Sunday of Obaldía:
For me, Christmas is synonymous with my grandmother’s recipe for shredded chicken and potato salad. It was something we only ate in December, so to this day, it’s a must-have at Christmas dinner. Another traditional Panamanian dish that screams “Christmas is here” is pernil (roasted pork leg). I don’t get many opportunities to eat it throughout the year; it’s only available at this time of year, which means it’s a very special occasion.
